Manicure Adaptations

The manicure is not a treatment which should be left to stagnate on your treatment menu. It can be modified and updated in many different ways to offer a more relaxing treatment which many clients will enjoy. You should not be afraid to try new things as part of your manicure, as giving the client more choice will mean that you can cater for all. If you are still stuck for ideas, contact your nail suppliers as many will have specialist spa and luxury lines.

 

In this module we will introduce various treatment adaptations which will include:

• French Polish

• Male Manicure

• Exfoliation

• Warm Oils

• Paraffin Wax

• Hot Mitts

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As an alternative to a full colour varnish, the client may prefer a French polish.

 

French polish is a simplistic style, which includes white polish at the free edge of the nail, with a pale pink or peach polish across the rest of the nail plate.

 

The key to a great smile line is confidence. If you take your time, and remain steady you will see much better results. When beginning to paint a smile line, ensure that your hands are well supported, you are holding your brush properly and that you are comfortable.

 

Keep a bottle of remover or corrector nearby – even the most experienced technicians make mistakes sometimes, and there is no shame in touching up your work, or starting again. The angle of the smile line should not follow the free edge. Instead, you should try to mirror the cuticle line. This will avoid a smile line which is either too flat or too deep. Make sure you only have a small bead of nail varnish on your brush.

Loading the brush too heavily will make the white too thick and difficult to control. Too little nail varnish will mean you cannot complete one sweeping action, and will have to break off halfway across the nail. When applying the varnish, start as close to the side wall as possible, lay the brush on the nail and try to make one gentle sweeping action across.

 

For those with less confidence, try painting a ‘V’ from the side walls to the free edge. This is quite simple as it is just two straight lines. Then use the ‘V’ as a guide to complete the rounded edge of the smile.

 

Once the nail has been properly prepared, and a base coat applied, the decision as to whether to apply to apply the pink or white polish first is yours. By applying pink first, you will have brighter tips, by applying the white first, you will achieve a more natural look. Again, the number of coats applied will depend on the style that the client is looking for, and the shade of varnish you are using. Once the pink and white varnishes have been applied you need to finish off with a top coat.

 

 

 

French Polish

The Male Manicure

Manicures are now becoming popular with men who want to keep their hands looking good without appearing too feminine. It is important to remember that although the manicure can be modified to be more masculine, as with your female clients, every man is different. Ensure that you do not make too many assumptions, and check what the client would actually like.

 

If you are going to amend your methods, remember to file the nails to a shorter length, and in a square shape. Most men will not require varnish, but buffing the nails will still provide a smart appearance.

 

When massaging, try to use an un-perfumed lotion or oil rather than a cream, and remember to use deeper movements.

 

 

 

Exfoliation

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Exfoliation is an ideal treatment adaptation to offer to your client to remove dead skin cells and smoothe the skin. You can exfoliate the client’s skin as part of the massage routine if required.

 

Apply the exfoliant prior to the massage to expose new cells and aid the absorption of the massage cream. Not only will this service remove dead skin cells, it will also improve skin texture and colour as well as increasing blood circulation.

 

You must ensure that all abrasive particles from the exfoliant have been removed with a warm, damp towel before continuing the manicure.

 

 

 

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Warm Oils

This is a fantastic treatment for anyone suffering from dry skin or cuticles, or with dry, flaky or brittle nails.

 

The oil can be placed in a bowl over a container of hot water to heat it prior to use.

 

Care must be taken during this process to avoid scalding. To incorporate warm oils into the manicure, the nails should be soaked in warm oil for approximately ten minutes. This should be done after the nails have been initially prepared. With the oil still on the hand, begin the massage.

 

The heat involved in the treatment helps the oils to penetrate deeper into the nail plate, cuticle and surrounding skin. The oils will leave the skin feeling silky and soft. Nail enamel should not be applied directly after this treatment.

 

 

 

 

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Paraffin Wax

This form of manicure provides relaxation and relief. The wax is generally a blend of paraffin wax and beeswax, but sometimes also incorporate essential oils. To ensure that it is soft enough to apply, the wax needs to be melted to a temperature of 50-55 degrees Celsius. The temperature of the wax should be tested on the arm of the therapist before applying it to the client.

The paraffin wax heater is thermostatically controlled and takes up to thirty minutes to heat the wax fully. This must be taken into account when preparing for the treatment.

 

The benefits of paraffin wax are numerous; it can stimulate circulation, improve skin condition and dry, chapped hands, relieve pain from arthritis and rheumatism and deep cleanse the skin. The wax should be heated and a small amount decanted into a separate bowl to prevent cross infection of the wax heater by double dipping the brush.

 

The wax can be applied either before or after the hand massage. Apply the wax to the hands using a clean brush, building up sufficient layers of wax to cover the skin. Then place the hands into plastic protectors and wrap in warm towels for around ten to fifteen minutes. The client’s hands should then be unwrapped, and the wax should be peeled off and disposed of, before the rest of the massage and manicure continues.

 

 

 

 

 

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Manicure Mask and Heated Mitts

Masks can be used to either moisturise or rejuvenate. Several layers of the mask should be applied before placing the hands inside electrically heated mitts to enable it to penetrate the epidermis. The mitts can also help to decrease joint stiffness, improve the condition of dry skin and improve the skin colour and blood circulation.

 

They are normally used after an additional service. The hands should be wrapped in a plastic protective covering and placed inside the mitts for approximately 15 minutes after which the mask should be removed and massage cream applied.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Treatment Examples

Standard Manicure

 

  • Shape Nails

  • Cuticle Work

  • Hand Soak

  • Buff Nails

  • Polish

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luxury Manicure

 

  • Hand Soak

  • Shape Nails

  • Cuticle Work

  • Exfoliation

  • Warm Oil or Hand Mitts

  • Hand Massage

  • Buffer Nails

  • Polish

 

 

 

 

 

French Polish

 

  • Hand Soak

  • Shape Nails

  • Cuticle Work

  • Exfoliation

  • Warm Oil or Hand Mitts

  • Hand Massage

  • Buffer Nails

  • French Polish

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mini Manicure

 

  • Shape Nails

  • Buff or Polish

 

 

 

 

 

 

Male Manicure

 

  • Shape Nails

  • Cuticle Work

  • Hand Soak

  • Hand Massage

  • Buff or Polish