Something a lot of lash techs fear is lash mapping. There are so many options cat, doll, squirrels, kim k and feathered. No wonder why people get confused, and don't know where to start. Marking the lash pads is crucial, if you don't mark you end up guessing and both eyes could end up different.
You can visually start mapping as soon as your client come in, asking them what they would and wouldn't like. Take notice of their eye shape. Are their eyes upturned? downturned? Do they have hooded eyes or round eyes? If your not sure where to start ask your client to sit up on the bed, get them to look straight forward and mark 3 points right near the lash line. One for where the left side of the coloured iris starts, where the middle of the pupil is and one the right side of the iris. These markings will make mapping easier when the eyes are closed.
Open Eye/Dolly Effect
The dolly lash styling effect is achieved by using the longest lengths in line with the iris. It opens up the eyes and really makes them stand out, whilst also giving hooded eyes a light lift. You can make thus mapping as more or less dramatic as you like by changing the lengths and making the middle part a little wider or narrower. This is perfect for most eye shapes but avoid using it on clients with rounded eyes as its going to exaggerate them and make their eyes appear bulbous.
The cat eye gives the appearance of beautiful wide set eyes, with length towards the outer edge. This looks best on rounded eyes to balance out the eye shape and closed set eyes which elongates the eyes and gives a sultry look. Most people think a cat eye is starting with a short length on the inner corners and ending on the longest on the outer edge. This isn't true. You still need to do down at least 1 or 2 lengths on the outer corners,
The way to map a squirrel is very similar to how you would map a cat eye. The marks are in exactly the same points, except the longest length is used in that left/mid area. It's a really pretty styling which not many lash techs like to do, maybe because they are not entirely sure how to do it. But when you break down the sections like this, you start to be able to visualise it a lot better. It looks amazing on most people as it's kind of half way way between a cat and a doll. Close set, downturned, hooded, round and almond eyes become slightly lifted and elongated so it's the perfect lash map for most people.